Heat transfers are killer to have in many scenarios. Many printers use them for neck tags, live printing events, names on jerseys, etc. While you can purchase transfers from a company, you can also make them yourself. Don’t know how? Well, keep reading this handy guide and you’ll be printing your own plastisol heat transfers in no time.
Do you know what is one of the worst feelings? The dread that fills your soul when a printed poly shirt comes out the end of the dryer and you notice the shirt’s dyes seeped into the print. (Don’t even get me started on printing white ink on a red polyester shirt.) It’s a screen printer’s nightmare. To keep the bad dreams away, learn how to prevent dye migration from happening in the first place.
Short answer — yes. If you’re mixing custom colors and incorporating white in designs, you need both a standard white plastisol ink and mixing white ink. Each ink is designed to do different things. It’s possible to use them interchangeably, but it ends up being a lot more work for the screen printer. Let’s go through it.
Ever ordered screen printing ink and when it arrived, you noticed that the ink had separated? Don’t fret, the ink hasn’t gone bad! It just needs a little TLC. Let’s go over why plastisol ink may separate and what you can do it make it production-ready. THE CHEMISTRY BEHIND PLASTISOL INK Have you bought natural peanut butter before? When it has sat on the shelf for who knows how long, the peanut butter is stiffer and the oil has separated and sits on top. But all you have to do is mix it and it’s ready to go. Plastisol ink works the same way. When it hasn’t been touched in a while, the ink will settle and a liquid will...
If you’ve gotten your hands on FN-INK, you know how awesome it is. It’s so easy to print. It produces bright, vibrant, opaque prints. Best of all, it doesn’t hurt your wallet. But as with any ink (especially new ones), you may have a few questions about its usage. Here are the top five questions about FN-INK and their answers.
